Naval Watch
Naval Watch is an old Swiss name with a very Japanese second act. The brand dates back to the 19th century, when it was making military watches in Switzerland, and by 1918 it was recorded for producing luminous-dial watches for military use. After disappearing for a period, the name was revived in Japan in 2016 under watch designer Yuji Yutsugi, bringing that military heritage into a much more contemporary setting.
That mix of traditional European watchmaking and modern Japanese design is what makes these guys interesting. The visual language borrows heavily from vintage field watches, divers and military issue pieces, but the proportions, Japanese movements and finishing make them far easier to live with today. Many models are assembled in Japan, and the brand has collaborated with the likes of BEAMS, United Arrows, Journal Standard and Urban Research, which tells you plenty. The watches have character without looking like reproductions, and they manage the difficult trick of feeling genuinely cool without costing the sort of money usually attached to serious mechanical watches.
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